|
|
|
Washingtonian Magazine Falls Church is groaning with Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and red-sauce Italian restaurants. There are even a handful of Latin, Indian, and Persian places. But authentic regional Italian? Nowhere to be found. Until six months ago, that is, when Argia's opened next to the State Theatre. Named for chef Stephen Scott's grandmother, who was born in the Emillia-Romagna city of Cento, this saffron-walled trattoria has Mussels Ariga, sweetly tender mollusks steamed with a whisper of white wine and parsley-scented broth, are some of the best in the area. A plate of bruschetta dazzles with red and yellow tomatoes shot with smoked mozzarella and basil, all heaped on thin, olive-glazed toasts. Beef carpaccio paired with asparagus is a What Scott didn't learn from in his grandmother's kitchen, he picked up working at Prima Piatti and with Roberto Donna at Galileo and I Matti. Co-chef Aimee Suyehiro did time at Kinkead's, Cashion's, and Persimmon. Between them they turn out some lovely food at marvelous prices. And in this age of large portions, dinners are given the choice between individual or family-style platters. Pastas can be had as first or main courses. The best have been lasagna with meat or roasted vegetables, The sins of this kitchen are too little or too much. Too much olive oil on sautéed spinach made with lovely baby greens. Too little salt on beautifully fried cornmeal-dusted calamari ringlets. And a chicken breast stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, and homemade mozzarella is somehow duller than the sum of its parts. Happily, lapses are only occasional. More often than not, the plate set before you will delight. Bronzed scallops are kissed with lemon-honey sauce and nestled amidst Swiss chard and earthy truffled mashed potatoes.Pork tenderloin wrapped in pancetta and crusted with black pepper woos the palate with its Wines are in keeping with the gentle prices, and desserts live up to the rest of the menu, especially Locals appreciate what Scott, Suyehiro, and their investors-two of whom are involved with the popular Rhodeside Grill in Arlington-are doing. With its good looks and ambitious cooking, Argia's could easily be thought of as a Big Date/Special Occasion place. But the neighborhood doesn't see it that way. Argia's is full every night of the week. |
brought urban chic to downtown Falls Church. Not that it's aggressively hard-edged and high tech. But even the retro elements-museum like clusters of framed black-and-white family photos, mahogany-edged rectangular mirrors, a polished wood floor, and Oriental rugs-are done with a spare, stylish hand. Much of the food echoes the look.
gorgeous study in red and green. An ever-changing antipasto selection with delectables as favas, bresaola, and eggplant will make you pine for Italy. There is Parma prosciutto and a Caprese salad with lush house-made mozzarella-breads, ice creams, and pastas are house-made too. Salads are not afterthoughts but smart creations such as baby spinach with pancetta and warm balsamic vinaigrette and shaved fennel with arugula and currants.
classic penne with Nonna Argia's Bolognese sauce, and the offbeat linguine campagnola with whole-wheat pasta, goat cheese, spinach, pine nuts, and roasted garlic. Linguine with rapini and crab sounds better than it eats, as does fettuccine with wild-mushroom ragu. Neither has much happening in the flavor department, which makes for a boring, sticky lump of pasta in need of a lube job.
double whammy of pork. Eggplant al formaggio is a study in lightness, a welcome change from leaden eggplant parmigiana: Thin rounds of eggplant are grilled with olive oil and layered with goat cheese, herbs, and tomato, sandwich style. But the dish you'll daydream about is veal saltimbocca, thin scallops layered with sage leaves and Parma prosciutto and browned in olive oil. A backdrop of corn, red-potato, and cherry-tomato salad makes the plate as striking to look at as to down with a glass of Chianti.
tiramisu, a standout in a world with too many tiramisus. Zabaglione on strawberries is as frothy as a liquid soufflé, gelato a deep, dark, satisfying chocolate, and cannoli crisply wonderful.